Couchfish Day 14: Every town is worth a night

My plan today is to ride back to Mae Sot, return the bike and catch a bus to Sukhothai, changing at Tak. At first I’d planned to overnight in Tak, but plans change—or so I thought.

I linger longer than I should in Umphang. Drawn by the fresh air and convivial atmosphere at Dhaya Cafe, it is almost midday by the time I decide to get going. Bag strapped on…