Most first–time visitors to Hue set up camp south of the Perfume River, crossing it only for the occasional bout of sightseeing. I suggest doing the opposite, making the Old City your diversion—don’t be surprised if you don’t cross the river at all.
For years just about all downtown Hue’s hotels were south of the river, meaning tourists had no choice in the matter. In recent times though, homestays have opened in the Old City, providing a chance for those looking for a more “local” experience—take the chance.
Eat everything. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
I arrive on the overnight train from Ho Chi Minh City. Yes, it’s a long haul in one hit by train, but the late afternoon 20 minute walk to Tam Family Homestay is the perfect way to stretch my legs. I take the narrow bridge alongside the railway, then walk along Lê Duẩn, with the river on my right.
It is about 4 pm and the shade trees along the riverbank let me enjoy my ramble without sweating to death. Then it is a sharp left, through the outer city wall and there it is, the homestay on my left.
View over the rooftops (yes there are roosters) from Tam Family Homestay. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Tam Family Homestay is the real deal—this is the family home—but the rooms are smart and private so you can choose to mingle or not to. I go for the rooftop shack they’ve added which has huge windows wrapping two sides of the room. There is a shared deck as well, with lazy chairs—the perfect spot for sunset.
Tam is one of a cluster of homestays in the Old City. Another good one is Le Robinet which is just around the corner—though it is more of a guesthouse than a homestay. There are plenty of others to choose from.
If the place is open and there are people eating there, it is probably worth a try. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Hue is famous for its eating, so I grab one of the free bicycles and ride across the Old City. This side of the river has less traffic and a near limitless selection of back lanes to explore, so I take my time. I try to get lost—and I do. The rear of the Citadel is dotted with ponds and small parks, and is great on two wheels. Kids swim, old men fish, people drink coffee on red plastic chairs everywhere.
My target is Nem Lụi Bà Tý near the northern end of Đào Duy Từ. It is a bún thịt nướng joint and the food is delicious, but the street itself is also a beauty. Lined with lovely old and restored houses this is a favourite among Hue’s canoodling couples Instagram set.
On Đào Duy Từ. It takes a while for the Instagram crew to clear out. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Afterwards I ride down by the Đông Ba canal to the Perfume River, then along the front of the Citadel and back to the homestay. Just in time for a sunset drink on the roof with the friendly family who run it.
Another advantage of this side of the river, is that the Citadel is five minutes away on foot. So the next morning I walk up Lê Huân and pick one of the coffee shops along there for a primer. If I wanted something more substantial I could walk up to Chợ Đông Ba or cross over the canal to Bún Bò Mệ Kéo, for, you guessed it, bún bò huế. The latter came recommended on my last visit, but every time I went it was either full or had run out—both good signs!
Hit me. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
After a morning exploring the Citadel, I grab my bicycle and ride west along the Perfume River to Huyền Anh. Another bún thịt nướng place it is ideally positioned as my lunch stop before riding on to Thien Mu temple.
After Thien Mu, I’d coast back, and pull up for a lazy hour at one of the sugar cane juice stalls in the shade along the river bank. These each have a few lazy (often red) chairs and make for an ideal spot to lounge away the last of the afternoon watching the tour boats glint in the sun.
Signing off another day. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
And that’s just 24 hours down—Hue deserves at least three days. Slow down and eat everything!
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