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Couchfish Diversion 16: Châu Đốc
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Couchfish Diversion 16: Châu Đốc

Sometimes a good diversion is a side–trip or a weekender, other times it is a way to break up a longer trip. Châu Đốc, just shy of the Vietnamese Cambodian border falls into the latter category.

The second largest centre in An Giang province (Long Xuyên is the capital), Châu Đốc is far more than a simple overnighter. The town has been welcoming travellers ever since the river border crossing opened. This put it on the map for tour companies running Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City overland trips via the Mekong Delta. Most, well almost all, overnight in Châu Đốc, but few stay longer.

You should. Let me explain why.

In the central market, Châu Đốc. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

In many ways, Châu Đốc is a classic Mekong Delta town. It has a stunning riverside setting—and the river never sleeps—there is always something going on. There’s a large market and excellent food. To the south of town lies two sights well worth your time. To the north, across the river, there is at least another.

In fact, grab a bicycle and head in any direction and you’ve got a good half day to a day exploration laid out in front of you.

First, where to stay. The town centre has your typical mini–hotels to choose from. I opt for the Vietnamese–Australian run Murray Guesthouse on the eastern edge of town. Flashpacker prices, but I always go for a family–run spot over a mini–hotel. And, they have great bikes.

Family–run digs. Murray Guesthouse. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

The first morning, I cycle down to Trà Sư Ecological Park (Rừng Tràm Trà Sư)—it is about 30km south of town, so some pedalling is involved. Trà Sư is a wetlands area and once there, I cycle around three sides of it (having miss–read my map). It reminds me of forest wats in Thailand—an incongruous stand of trees surrounded by rice fields.

Once within, I charter a boat for a paddle through the brackish waters. It might not sound that interesting, but it is well pretty. At the centre, I climb a watch tower to enjoy a 360 degree view over the surrounds. Afterwards I snack and drink at the food stalls dotted about the base.

Trà Sư. Putting the wet in wetlands. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

A 65 km round trip leaves me not too interested in anything else. Instead I laze, then catch the suns’ last rays over the river, have a second dinner and call it a day.

At the crack of dawn I hit the Châu Đốc floating market. It happens a little to the southeast of town, but my guide and I take a sampan from central Châu Đốc and are there in no time. The market is nowhere near as busy as the ones for example around Cần Thơ, but it is still well worth it—and I’m the only foreigner about.

Back to port, we head a short walk off the river bank for an excellent bowl of bún cá at Bún Cá Dì Lệ. A rice vermicelli soup with a fish base, Châu Đốc is famous for the dish. Delish. There is a variety on the dish, bun kan, which we miss out trying, but it has a coconut base—next time.

Bún cá. Hit me. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

Sated, I hire a scooter and ride to Sam Mountain (Núi Sam). More of a hill than a mountain, it punches above its weight solely because the Delta is as flat as a pancake. There are two highlights—a cluster of temples at the northern base, and the viewpoint from the summit.

At the base, don’t miss Chùa Bà Chúa Xứ, notable for the offerings of entire roast pigs given up here. At the summit, the views speak for themself.

Pig anyone? At Chùa Bà Chúa Xứ. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

After a post climb phở, I ride back into town, have a second lunch, then cross the river. On the far bank there is a sizeable Cham Muslim community. A ferry ticket costs 1,000 dong for a foot passenger or just a little more for a bicycle or scooter. Once on the other side, I break right, to the Jamiul Azhar Mosque.

Afterwards, I ride back to the west and just kept going. Think interesting pagodas, weaving, sausages hung out to dry, traditional wooden houses, and all manner of rural Mekong scenes. With more time (well, a motorbike), I’d have pushed on north to Tân Châu, for more weaving, but it is getting late and the night market is calling me back.

Grabbing a quick bowl at the floating market. Photo: Stuart McDonald.

The sun setting, I catch the ferry back over, bathed in the last light of the day, and head to the night market for yet another feast.

I could easily have given Châu Đốc another day.

Looking for something similar in the Delta? Consider Sa Đéc.

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Couchfish
The Couchfish podcast. Following a day by day itinerary through Southeast Asia—for all those people stranded on their couch.