You’ve been baking on the beaches of Lombok’s Gili Islands for the last week or so and your next notch to mark off, is Komodo. There’s a problem though. Your guidebook says Sumbawa is kind of crap. So, you’re edging towards a backpacker boat to Flores instead.
Don’t do it—Sumbawa rocks! It has everything—except tourists.
Whales and Waves now has a skate ramp—time to return!
It has a magnificent volcano—Gunung Tambora. Tambora’s eruption, in 1815, was the most powerful volcanic eruption in human history. Over on the banks of Lake Geneva (yes in Switzerland) the eruption delivered moody weather according to some sources. How moody? Moody enough to get Mary Shelley’s creative juices flowing.
Yes, Frankenstein is truly a child of Indonesia!
Note, not all agree on this (and the Conversation doesn’t even pay its writers, but whatever), but seriously, what better eruption to birth Frankenstein than the largest in human history?!
Tambora is wild. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Sumbawa has superb beaches, and some of the best surf breaks in the world. Not a surfer? How about deserted islands perfect for a family camping trip. Not a camper? Salubrious resorts (well, at least one) exist—hotels are not Sumbawa’s strong–point. Best of all, Sumbawans are way cool and super friendly.
With limited words, I’m sticking to the west of the island. If the following gets your feet itching, do check out my full coverage on Travelfish from a trip I did there a coupla years ago.
Dad, will there be WiFi? No. Photo: Mean Dad.
From Lombok, your first mission is to get your ass over to the eastern ferry port at Kayangan. With extra time, consider a side–diversion to Labuhan Pandan—a personal favourite. No time? Jump on a “great white ferry” (as my son calls them) for the 45 minute trip to Poto Tano—Sumbawa’s western port.
Islands within an island
On the way in you’ll see islands dotted about. There are seven main ones, but they’re undeveloped. If you’ve a tent and like to snorkel, consider chartering a boat in Poto Tano for some island time. Ask for either Gili Paserang (another personal favourite), or Gili Kenawa. Ask the boat man to pick you up in a few days time. You will need to be one hundred percent self–sufficient, including drinking water. I took the kids camping on Gili Paserang a few years ago, and it was fabulous—the house reef there is excellent.
Who needs WiFi? Camping on Gili Paserang, Sumbawa. Photo: A less mean Dad.
By the time you see the boat man returning to pick you up you’ll be kicking yourself for lolling on Lombok’s silly Gilis for so long.
Mainland. Take a breath.
First stop heading down the coast is Kertasari. There is one semi–fancy, though not super expensive resort there—Whales and Waves. Is it a terrific choice for families. If it breaks your budget, there are surfer–orientated homestays as well. There are a bunch of beaches to explore around here.
Hello Kertasari. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Next is Jelenga. The beach sits behind a huge bluff and, at least on my last visit (a coupla years ago), there was zero phone signal. Yes—these places still exist! If it is still running, The Wood Garden is a great budget spot, though it looks like it has faded away. Jelenga Lodge has re–branded as Scar Reef Resort. Also check AirBnb.
Wherever you stay, hire a boat dude to take you to the outer reef for snorkelling and deepish free diving. Better still, take a look around the northern headland. There you’ll find some fantastic little beaches you’ll be sharing with nobody but crabs (and the boat dude).
Struggling through the beaches near Jelenga. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
There’s a waterfall inland you can also visit—dodge weekends if you can. The swing is fun, but do watch the rocks…
Time to go? Where did those three weeks go?
Further down the coast is Maluk—a larger and not particularly enticing town. The beach though, is terrific—despite the local tourism mob’s attempts to make it even more beautiful. The break offshore is amazing. On the backside of the southern headland is Super Suck—a break I was told people fly from Hawaii to surf when it is working. Heady praise.
Watching the break from Merdeka House, Maluk. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Atop the southern headland, there is a cluster of homestays, my pick, easily, is Merdeka House. Great place, greater people and greater still views. Will never forget sitting on their outside deck watching the surf roll in.
You want more? South again to Yo Yo’s (well Ranteng is the beach, Yo Yo’s the break). This is very much a surfer hang out (unlike the others ha!) and the beach was pretty scruffy on my last pass, but the surf was delivering. There is plenty of accommodation to choose from. Some owned by, or catering to, workers from that ghastly scar on the planet, the Batu Hijau mine, which is not far away. Do check it out on Google Earth—perhaps just search for “eyesores”. It is also, by the way, an environmental shocker. A-grade.
Late light at Yo Yo’s. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
Last, but not least, the perfect named Tropicals. As far as picture perfect beaches go, it doesn’t get better than this. The beach goes and goes ... and goes. Many visit here on scooters from Maluk or Yo Yo’s. However you swing it, do visit. There is also a semi–abandoned airport here you can speed on if you want to see if you can get your Honda Scoopy up to 120km/h.
As I mentioned, Tropicals goes and goes. The further west you go, the quieter it gets. In fact, it can get so quiet you might feel like you and your lover are the only people there.
Hang on to your clothes at Tropicals. Photo: Stuart McDonald.
You might feel the need to take off all your clothes just so you can both feel that beautiful ocean and sand, on your bare skin. Just bare (geddit!) in mind, that you may not be as alone as you think. Emerging later to find all your clothes nicked will lead to an embarrassing ride home.
You’re welcome.
Couchfish Diversion 13: West Sumbawa, Indonesia