After all the riding yesterday I end up at Cranky T’s. The cafe/bar is Phonsavan’s best nightlife option—or the best karaoke–free one anyway. It attracts what few travellers are in town on any given evening, so is a good spot to meet others.

I’d hoped to catch up with Poon and Heather who I’d met in Luang Prabang, but they’re nowhere in sight. Instead th…