6 Comments

Good pitch for hue. It is more than bun bo, isn't it? I did 5 days between DaNang/HoiAn and could've easily added another 2 days. I like the food trail idea with papermaps! I'm in!

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I am now in Thailand practising the art of tourism in The Slow Way, and always asking what would make me stay another day? The decision often comes down to a. Was the food good, b. Can I find great food tomorrow? And c. Are the locals glad I am here, or if they aren’t that shows they are focussed on their own real lives unrelated to tourism and tourists’ wants and needs. In smaller towns in Thailand you encounter so much genuine kindness here that goes beyond a negotiated service. So spending more time with people like that often leads to a deeper encounter.

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I loved Hue, though it is almost 10 years since we visited. It's a place I would readily go back to - and sometime hopefully soon I will. I draw and paint, and always take a sketch book and a small paint box with me on trips. I can spend hours in front of a building, or in a market, or a countryside scene (doesn't have to be pretty) - it's the perfect pastime for slow travel. It's also useful for places that don't allow cameras or where locals are wary of photographers, especially those with big fancy cameras. I've never yet had anyone complain about me including them in a sketch.

I often see tour groups turn up, jump out of their van/car, snap a couple of pixs on their phones and jump back in their transport. They probably don't even have much memory after of where they were - I can almost remember every brick or stone, doorway or roof (and definitely remember the sore bum from perching on a wall or rock!).

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Agree with everything that Violets (below) says . I’ve stayed in Hue many times and its steadily grown on me especially when after the second time I ‘crossed the bridge’ . As good as the nosh is pretty much everywhere in Vietnam , Hue is the best .

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Other things to do are go into the countryside (bus from the bus station next to Ben Thanh market or get a bike taxi) to see the Japanese bridge and the house that Ho Chi Minh lived in while he was studying in Hue. Other things I have seen on those trips were duck farms, hand winnowing of grain and lovely scenery. The Emperor’s mother lived in Hue and her house has been renovated and you can do a tour of it. That gets you to a part of Hue you otherwise would not see. There are at least three good markets that I know of and walking around the streets around the citadel will show you a whole lot of interesting things. Hue is a lovely place to get a cyclo ride and it’s probably safer than other cities. Just agree to a price before you go.

If you go to the canal near Dong Na market you can cross the bridge to Gia Hoi and Phu Hao and wander around. It’s more residential but Ikve seen cottage industries there too. Or youcould spend a day out at the beach.

I don’t like the area where most of the cheap hotels are but it seems to be where most tourists hang out and they miss the rest of this delightful city.

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Hoping to plan a trip to Vietnam this year so will be following these dispatches and scouring your archives for tips!

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