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Oct 26, 2023Liked by Stuart McDonald

I'm missing something here. So, did you go to the cockfight?

Terrific piece. I've never read Geertz before, will make a beeline to find more. I love watching the cockfights, and he describes them beautifully. One of the joys of being in Bali is that I, a single white woman, can hang around with a bunch of men engrossed in a blood sport, some of them (depending on the occasion) half-cut on arak, and not only feel safe but feel welcome. The only purposeful touch I've ever felt was being pulled out of harm's way when the battle between the roosters and their flashing blades lurched suddenly close.

By the way -- you probably know that the Rusty mentioned by Albie Falzon as playing his guitar that night is Rusty Miller, still giving surfing lessons at Byron Bay. I was at his 80th birthday party a few weeks ago, held at the Coorabell Hall. Splendid occasion! But no cockfights.

cheers

Kate

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What a fascinating read, Stuart! Your vivid descriptions transport the reader to Uma Agung Sidemen and the enchanting landscapes of East Bali. The juxtaposition of the quiet guesthouse against the backdrop of the forbidden world of cockfights paints a vivid picture of the region's complexities.

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