I'm missing something here. So, did you go to the cockfight?
Terrific piece. I've never read Geertz before, will make a beeline to find more. I love watching the cockfights, and he describes them beautifully. One of the joys of being in Bali is that I, a single white woman, can hang around with a bunch of men engrossed in a blood sport, some of them (depending on the occasion) half-cut on arak, and not only feel safe but feel welcome. The only purposeful touch I've ever felt was being pulled out of harm's way when the battle between the roosters and their flashing blades lurched suddenly close.
By the way -- you probably know that the Rusty mentioned by Albie Falzon as playing his guitar that night is Rusty Miller, still giving surfing lessons at Byron Bay. I was at his 80th birthday party a few weeks ago, held at the Coorabell Hall. Splendid occasion! But no cockfights.
Thank you, glad to hear you enjoyed it. Yes, I did attend the cockfight at Sidemen, I just decided not to use any of the pics of the birds. Geertz really captures it perfectly—he could have written it yesterday, though he’d need to mention all the cellphones then!
About the cellphones: I'm curious as to whether the people taking photos in Sidemen were tourists or visitors, such as yourself, or were the Balinese taking photos too? Thinking about it, I realise it's almost 20 years since I was last at a cockfight, ie pre iPhone. I spent 5 months living in a village a few kilometres from Ubud in 2004, and thanks to the people there I got to attend some really big temple ceremonies, one of which went for most of the night and was almost exactly as described by Covarrubias in the 1930s, in 'Island of Bali'.
What a fascinating read, Stuart! Your vivid descriptions transport the reader to Uma Agung Sidemen and the enchanting landscapes of East Bali. The juxtaposition of the quiet guesthouse against the backdrop of the forbidden world of cockfights paints a vivid picture of the region's complexities.
I'm missing something here. So, did you go to the cockfight?
Terrific piece. I've never read Geertz before, will make a beeline to find more. I love watching the cockfights, and he describes them beautifully. One of the joys of being in Bali is that I, a single white woman, can hang around with a bunch of men engrossed in a blood sport, some of them (depending on the occasion) half-cut on arak, and not only feel safe but feel welcome. The only purposeful touch I've ever felt was being pulled out of harm's way when the battle between the roosters and their flashing blades lurched suddenly close.
By the way -- you probably know that the Rusty mentioned by Albie Falzon as playing his guitar that night is Rusty Miller, still giving surfing lessons at Byron Bay. I was at his 80th birthday party a few weeks ago, held at the Coorabell Hall. Splendid occasion! But no cockfights.
cheers
Kate
Hi Kate,
Thank you, glad to hear you enjoyed it. Yes, I did attend the cockfight at Sidemen, I just decided not to use any of the pics of the birds. Geertz really captures it perfectly—he could have written it yesterday, though he’d need to mention all the cellphones then!
Hi Stuart -
About the cellphones: I'm curious as to whether the people taking photos in Sidemen were tourists or visitors, such as yourself, or were the Balinese taking photos too? Thinking about it, I realise it's almost 20 years since I was last at a cockfight, ie pre iPhone. I spent 5 months living in a village a few kilometres from Ubud in 2004, and thanks to the people there I got to attend some really big temple ceremonies, one of which went for most of the night and was almost exactly as described by Covarrubias in the 1930s, in 'Island of Bali'.
cheers,
Kate
What a fascinating read, Stuart! Your vivid descriptions transport the reader to Uma Agung Sidemen and the enchanting landscapes of East Bali. The juxtaposition of the quiet guesthouse against the backdrop of the forbidden world of cockfights paints a vivid picture of the region's complexities.