15 Comments

oh, awful! well, it sure gets off our next year's trip itinerary 😪

what is it with this fixation to want what everybody else has done already ending up with yet another photo looking exactly the same as all the others not even enjoying the site nor aparently the way up. ouch.

Expand full comment

It’s a pretty climb--midweek might be better!

Expand full comment

How dreadful! I did that climb in June 2012. There were two others with our guide and we saw around a dozen more by the time we got to the summit. What a change (and not for the better).

Expand full comment

Busy, yes, but still very pretty.

Expand full comment

I did the climb in. Junee 2008. There were not more than 7 people in my group. There might have been one other group going up that morning, can't remember.

I thought Lake Batur itself was a dreamy idyllic place, and walked around for hours seeing no other tourists.

Expand full comment

Regarding the lakeside, yup, very pretty, and few tourists. The peak, a bit busier!

Expand full comment

It is indeed disheartening to witness the impact of increased tourism on once pristine natural areas like Keling King and Lake Toba. The surge in tourism can bring economic benefits to an area but often comes at the cost of environmental degradation if not managed sustainably.

Many popular natural destinations around the world are facing similar challenges due to over-tourism. Balancing the economic benefits of tourism with the need to preserve these beautiful places for future generations is a complex task that requires careful planning, infrastructure development, and responsible tourism practices.

Efforts to promote sustainable tourism, preserve local cultures, and protect the environment are essential to ensure that these destinations can continue to be enjoyed by travelers while maintaining their natural beauty. It's a shared responsibility among governments, local communities, tourists, and businesses to find this balance and work together to protect these precious natural treasures.

Expand full comment

Yes, no doubt it’s a complicated challenge and I get that in some nations, destinations are working with somewhat limited resources to get a handle on things.

That said, I’m very much of the view of “locals first, tourists later,” but I’m also leery of pricing visitors out by upping fees by huge amounts to manage demand and cap numbers.

While I get into this in more depth in part 2, one approach Batur could take would be to mandate that if you want to climb the peak you need to be able to prove you’re staying in the Kintamani region for two nights.

This would definitely reduce climbing numbers--as most drive in from elsewhere in Bali, climb and leave--but those who do, will have stayed longer, and so have spent more in the immediate economy--spreading money beyond the trekking collective and its guides to accommodation providers, restaurants, other attractions and so on.

So while trekking takes an overall hit, the region as a whole does better. That’s one approach.

Expand full comment

OMG what a depressing article and I am very much in agreement with Bert but just what is the solution? Yes I agree with you Stuart that minimum stay might be an option but that does then mean there need to be adequate facilities and other things to do and the nearby villages don't turn into awful tourist enclaves.

Pricing sounds simple but Indonesia is already going down this route on other attractions and if every attraction cost an arm and a leg the attraction of Indonesia as a destination might be greatly impacted for budget travelers who want more than sun sea and sex

Expand full comment

You know me--I’m the good news channel! In the specific case of Batur, there is plenty enough to do to fill two days--certainly enough to argue that forcing a prolonged stay (two nights hardly being prolonged!) isn’t going to result in having nothing to do. But, as is often the case, there are plenty of moving parts, and can’t make everyone happy all of the time, some give might be required, but also plenty of imagination/vision required. Challenging stuff, but essential in my opinion. Simply jacking up the prices is not a solution.

Expand full comment

But can the village cope with 500- 1000+ visitors a night . I agree about the price not being the solution

Expand full comment

Yeah, it’s a sprawling strung out place with loads of villages dotted about, in the caldera, on the rims and all about. I think there’s a hundred or so places to stay all up--with a ahhhh massive range in standards! Idea would be to reduce considerably the overall total on peak at any one time--for more on that, you’ll have to wait for tomorrow!

Expand full comment

And later that day there would have been 100 TikToks showing a somenoe climbing a deserted Batur

Expand full comment

Yeah, that aspect is actually in part 2!

Expand full comment